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Thread: 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700efi

  1. #1
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    2012 Bennche Bighorn 700efi

    I'm looking to do some performance work on my 700 efi and I'm wondering what others have tried.

    1st things 1st. I've been having some sluggish issues so the 1st thing i did was add an air fuel ratio gauge tapping into the stock O2 sensor. I have noticed while cruising through the woods maybe 15mph that the AFR will swing from a 13.1 up to a 16.5. Once it gets above a 14.1 i can feel it loose power. Driving slow in low gear ill notice the same and sometimes i have to push the gas peddle past 1/2 way just to get it to move so it feels real sluggish and having an AFR gauge on it i can see thats my biggest problem. If i unplug the O2 sensor then it just runs way to rich and sometimes floods the engine. I have replaced both wiring harnesses EFI & main harness, I have replaced ECU & central relay box, throttle position sensor, idle air control, MAP, engine temp sensor. so its all like new. I just purchased today the EJK fuel controller which i will let everyone know how well this works. Specifically the one for hisun 500/700 2011-2013. If i can get this thing to run around a 13.1 all the time then the power will be noticeably different.

    My next question is in the clutch. I've been looking at buying a machined sheave with greasless roller weights but not sure what gram i should go with.

    My current riding conditions are mainly slow riding with hill climbing. I mainly use it for hunting but occasionally hit some atv parks. My hunting land is somewhat hilly with wash outs so theres no fast riding just slow crawling. not on rocks just soft surfaces. I do have a 2" lift running 25" itp mudlites. I would like to build this clutch in a way so that when i go up to a 27" tire i dont have to mod the clutch again.

    To get a better idea of my riding conditions please checkout the videos below on you tube. If you enjoy them then smash that thumbs up & subscribe as i plan on doing tons of videos this summer.

    Part 1: https://youtu.be/LCYu2arrBuI
    Part 2: https://youtu.be/WaR0oXDfsTE
    Part 3: https://youtu.be/YXnIQB_BLhA

    Thanks for any help in advance and I'll let yall know how the EJK works.

  2. #2
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    No ones tried messing with the clutch? Put a rhino machined sheave or greaseless roller weights?

  3. #3
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    we have never done this but have done the clutch shim kit and spring kit.

    i believe the factory rollers are 16 grams and if you lessen them it will help with more low end vs top end. the secondary clutch spring and wet clutch springs will give you a lot different driving experience. it will rev higher before taking off and really makes things strange if you ask me.

    ebay a rhino clutch shim kit and put a 1.5mm shim in your unit and look for some 14 gram rollers. that would be my recommendation. a machined sheave will give you more results than the shim kit but more money obviously.
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    Thanks for the response. Yeah I'm looking for more lower end power. Cant really get up to high speeds at my hunting land...

    I'll look into the shim kit. The main reason i was asking about machined sheave is because I've noticed my stock one is starting to pit a little. You can see little pores in the primary and i have no idea what that is from. So I figured if I'm going to buy a new one then I might as well get one that will give me more performance.

    Looking at some of these places that sell machined sheaves i see they offer one for a Rhino 660 & one for a Rhino 700. I wasn't sure which one our machine clutch is closest too. I'm okay with spending $200 - $400 in the primary if I'm going to get results.

    I know the biggest issue I'm having now is fuel. Not real sure why my machine swings from way rich to way lean and you can really feel the power loss when it goes lean. My Fuel controller comes in today so I'll hook that up tonight and see if it will hold my AFR steadier around a 12.5 to 13.0
    Clutches are more for when i go with bigger tires like 27"s

  5. #5
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    i see you mentioned you replaced everything in the efi system basically but the o2 sensor. may be something to look into. my assumption would be the controller is only going to get you closer to your range but will not eliminate the strange swings you are having.

    we have worked with Dobeck to help on these controllers and getting them going because at first they were only going to allow fuel to be added vs allowing fuel to be removed. i dont remember the range but you can remove up to 10% now and add up to 20% i believe.

    post some results.
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    I did replace the O2 Sensor. pretty much all electrical is new. ECM, Fuse box, all the sensors, all the wires. I have put a new injector, fuel lines, & fuel filter. I bought the EJK controller for the 2011-2013 700 hisun. I do believe you can only add and not take away fuel. Its mainly when cruising. Wide open it holds steady but i think it needs to be richer. little throttle or cruising it just cant figure out where to be so I'm hoping it will settle it down some. From what i can tell the stock fuel curve tries to stay around a 13.9-14.5 which i think is a little lean but not too much. I'm hoping for a 12.9-13.0

    Will post results after install & testing.

  7. #7
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    doesn't surprise me it is lean. trying to import product into the usa and epa standards require lean vehicles. Leaner is meaner! haha!
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    Does the throttle position sensor tell the ECU how much fuel to dump? I wonder if it's acting up. The fuel controller is helping but I noticed under light throttle the controller doesn't realize it's not at idle so more fuel isn't being added. It acts like it thinks it's in idle until I hit half throttle.

  9. #9
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    basically all the items you replaced control what the ecu does. i'm sure you may be thinking well i knew that. thats the issue with EFI. even the proper Delphi scanner makes it hard to diagnose unless something is truly bad. Hisun does not get this technical but when replacing the TPS it requires a digital meter and you need to set the resistance with the throttle blade 100% closed and a certain resistance then you run the blade open until another resistance is read. not saying this is your issue but the tps opens, the maf (or iat in this case) reads more air along with the other components and it adjusts from there.

    you worked on all the idle and mid throttle settings on the controller?
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    I was just playing with the mid range. I'll try & do more test runs tomorrow. I replaced all those sensors about a year ago. I have a video that I'll try & upload in the morning. Is it possible that my timing could be off? I have noticed if i unplug my O2 sensor that it will just run rich. Way rich. 10.5

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    Check out this video. Now this is just in neutral with me reving up the motor. I know that doesn't help to well but the afr gauge swings just like that when i cruse and as soon as it gets up around a 15 you can feel it loosing power.

  12. #12
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    to be quite frank about it, here is a video from 5 years ago we shot on the stock unit and you can see we had the same issue. it isn't doing what yours is at an idle but if you watch when it is going there are several spikes in the afr. this was when we were testing the 3.0 controller that only adds fuel. you should have the 3.5 version now which should allow a certain % of fuel removal.






    either way i think it has been an issue for quite some time. maybe i should dig up my standalone ecu again and see if i can get it working. never did have any luck but really needed to take it to a chassis dyno
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
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  13. #13
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    this is the standalone software
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    I've actually watched those videos a couple years ago.

    Image below shows the 6 different modes and theyre adjustments. I do have the GEN 3.5 and there was a couple things i noticed when i was using it.
    When i cranked the machine and sat at idle I noticed the 2 green lights stayed solid. From what i gather it seems like the 1st green light should blink when no zone is engaged. so at idle it seems like it thinks were at cruise.
    I have to hit 50% throttle before the controller says I'm in acceleration "shows yellow lights" and at full throttle it does show the red light.
    So it sounds like i need to play with the switch points. have acceleration zone come in around 20% throttle and richen it up to keep it from running lean.

    Is this the way you see it as well. When I'm sitting at idle should the controller only flash the 1st led when idle and then when you give it throttle the LED's go solid per what "zone" your in?

    Capture.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by kelleymotorsports View Post


    this is the standalone software
    Does this connect to the stock ECU or do you have to buy an aftermarket one?

  16. #16
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    this video makes it slightly easier, not sure if you seen this one.




    it is a standalone ecu. completely remove the old one and this one is installed. i'm not even sure if the company exists anymore and it just sits in the drawer in the shop. haha!
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
    Sales, Parts, and Service www.kelleymotorsports.com

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    I actually just realized ejk has a demo on theyre home page. So as you adjust each setting it shows you on the fuel curve how its being affected which is making since now. i adjusted the green/blue in the wrong direction which is why i was running a little lean at idle.

    Capture.jpg
    This is how its set from factory.

    Capture.jpg
    this is what i changed just messing with it to see what changes so i took away fuel at idle...

    Capture.jpg
    After work I'm going to adjust it like so. Have green set to come in early, adjust yellow to come in a little earier as well, and leave to red where it was. I'll also add more fuel for each level and see what that does to my afr.

  18. #18
    Respected Member kelleymotorsports's Avatar
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    ya true i did forget about the functional deal on their site. post back what you find.
    Kelley Motorsports LLC 563-920-3412 sales@kelleymotorsports.com
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    So i adjusted the controller to the settings as shown below. Everything was working fine but then out of no where my machine decided it didn't want to idle. I'm thinking i was having the green come in to soon. I was out at my hunting land putting food plots and it never crossed my mind to adjust the blue green setting. I just unplugged it and ran it without this evening I'm going to make this adjustment and see how it works. I can say bringing in the yellow sooner really helped a lot. There was still the occasional spike in AFR towards lean but it didn't stay there long enough for me to notice power loss. I would say this controller has helped a lot just fine tuning it is the catch.

    This is how i set it before i went in the woods
    Capture.jpg

    This is how i should have changed it to fix my issue
    Capture1.jpg

  20. #20
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    So I'm not sure why but its causing my machine to run very very rich at idle and when trying to crank the machine.

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