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Thread: I've never seen it before in my life

  1. #1
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    I've never seen it before in my life

    I start in could my 800HS engine with no problem, then I start moving but about 12 minutes later the engine suddenly stops, I try but it doesnít start, I wait for about 20 minutes and finally starts again to repeat de cycle as many times as my patience allows me to do it. In other words I run for periods of 12 minutes with rests of 20.

    An engine that works fine, but only in an intermittent way is some thing beyond my imagination and mind. I bet no one has been in such a mysterious situation.

  2. #2
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cilindro View Post
    I start in could my 800HS engine with no problem, then I start moving but about 12 minutes later the engine suddenly stops, I try but it doesn’t start, I wait for about 20 minutes and finally starts again to repeat de cycle as many times as my patience allows me to do it. In other words I run for periods of 12 minutes with rests of 20.

    An engine that works fine, but only in an intermittent way is some thing beyond my imagination and mind. I bet no one has been in such a mysterious situation.
    Here is a thread that talks about the same thing and if you have the same problem, as it turned out there is a quick way to find out.

    http://rhinoclones.com/showthread.ph...t=crank+sensor

    It ended up being the crankshaft sensor. When the engine dies poor cold water on the crankshaft sensor and try it. If it starts back up and you do not have to wait the 20 minutes then that is what it is.

    Good luck

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  3. #3
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    Here is a thread that talks about the same thing and if you have the same problem, as it turned out there is a quick way to find out.

    http://rhinoclones.com/showthread.ph...t=crank+sensor

    It ended up being the crankshaft sensor. When the engine dies poor cold water on the crankshaft sensor and try it. If it starts back up and you do not have to wait the 20 minutes then that is what it is.

    Good luck
    I've just read the entire thread and I am very impressed with its value. I point out the patience of kd5wef to go through such a long process and the help all the member provide him at all the time. It was a nice team effort with a happy ending.

    One question for Pro-Tech: Where the crankshaft sensor is located? I hope I do not have to remove the stator assembly. I am looking forward to pouring a could glass of water on it and if it works, a second one on top of me to celebrate.

    Thanks,

  4. #4
    Senior Member wyodlr's Avatar
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    The crank sensor is on top of the cover for the stator towards the rear .It sets close to the exhaust pipe . No need to remove the stator if you pop of the small cover on the center console and look back on the drivers side you will see it . You might need a hose or funnel to pour the water on it.

  5. #5
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Just as Wyodlr says, no need to remove anything but the driver seat.

    On the top of the stator housing is the Crank Sensor.

    http://www.erpowersports.com/Images/CrankSensor.jpg

    Not sure why we can't post pictures anymore but here is a link to the picture.
    Last edited by Pro-Tech; 04-01-2012 at 07:48 PM.

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  6. #6
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyodlr View Post
    The crank sensor is on top of the cover for the stator towards the rear .It sets close to the exhaust pipe . No need to remove the stator if you pop of the small cover on the center console and look back on the drivers side you will see it . You might need a hose or funnel to pour the water on it.
    I tried to pour cold water on the sensor and BINGO!!! it works like a champ. I have to point out that the thread Pro-Tech recommended me was fantastic. Now let me add my little and humble portion. The following info will help users with the same problem.

    1- Ever since itís hard to carry out a gardening hose and a faucet while you drive around the 800, I bought a gardening plastic can, the ones they use to kill weeds. The advantage is 1.1 - the metallic nozzle can be regulated from spray (you donít want) to jet mode (you want to) 1.2- Pumping pressure before pulling the trigger, allows to keep the cold water jet in a continuous mode for about 20 seconds, without loosing the aim. 1.3- There is no need to remove any 800 part or component, not even the seat, you have access from the rear left tire to shot the sensor with ice-water. It does work.

    2- The sensor is in black color and P/N 309800002; the just in case O-ring is P/N 338800007

    Thank you guys for all your help, you all did a great job indeed.

  7. #7
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Great to hear you got it and did not have to spend much time to figure it out.

    A big thank you for the resolution of this problem to the hard work of Kd5wef and the help of almost every Sponsor and member here!
    This is what the forum is all about!!!

    Now just replace it and your good to go!

    Have fun.
    Last edited by Pro-Tech; 04-02-2012 at 09:32 AM.

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  8. #8
    Senior Member MADKAWI's Avatar
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    U should put a 3x9x40 scope on that hose to get your aim right.. Lol

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  10. #9
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MADKAWI View Post
    U should put a 3x9x40 scope on that hose to get your aim right.. Lol
    I don't know why should we. If you can see the target and this is 2.5 ft away from the nozzle, aiming and hitting the target is a piece of cake.

  11. #10
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    I've got to admit I've really been enjoying the mental imagery associated with picturing a 3 x 9 variable scope mounted on a garden hose nozzle....ROFLMAO...

  12. #11
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Well, the importat thing is that the new sensor works so far. I said "so far" since the previous one also worked fine, ... for its first 200 miles.

  13. #12
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Ah have some faith!
    It will last at least 201 miles I am sure!

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  14. #13
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    Ah have some faith!
    It will last at least 201 miles I am sure!
    My goodness, that makes me feel much better. Any way, I will keep my weed killer can on the trunk, just in case.

    By the way, I bought my 800 in February this year, although it came to the dealer in December 2011. Do you think it will have the cooling and front diff improvements already implemented?

    Thanks,

  15. #14
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cilindro View Post
    My goodness, that makes me feel much better. Any way, I will keep my weed killer can on the trunk, just in case.Thanks,
    Glad I could help!


    Quote Originally Posted by cilindro View Post
    By the way, I bought my 800 in February this year, although it came to the dealer in December 2011. Do you think it will have the cooling and front diff improvements already implemented?

    Thanks,
    I do not think it will have the cooling update, but you never know!The front diff will most likely have the STEEL cage in it, which is not such a good idea.Most of this depends upon who the distributor and dealer is. I know Supermach was pulling front diffs and replacing parts before they were sold. Problem is at the time they did it for us they were installing the steel cage. So it was not the help they thought it was.I know it takes some time, but if it were me I would pull the front diff and check it. You really do not want a steel cage in there as it will do damage to other parts it comes in contact with. Just pull it and change it out with the John Deere cage if you would like!
    Last edited by Pro-Tech; 04-06-2012 at 08:25 AM.

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  16. #15
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    Glad I could help!




    I do not think it will have the cooling update, but you never know!The front diff will most likely have the STEEL cage in it, which is not such a good idea.Most of this depends upon who the distributor and dealer is. I know Supermach was pulling front diffs and replacing parts before they were sold. Problem is at the time they did it for us they were installing the steel cage. So it was not the help they thought it was.I know it takes some time, but if it were me I would pull the front diff and check it. You really do not want a steel cage in there as it will do damage to other parts it comes in contact with. Just pull it and change it out with the John Deere cage if you would like!
    If I understand correctly Supermach installed the steel cage by default till they realize it was a bad idea and stop doing it, but all you've got from them are units from the first series. What I donít understand is what makes you think that my 800 has a steel cage if it was sold to me directly from China. Regarding the cooling issue to say I donít have overheating problems, although I donít like an engine that runs with both cylinders a different temperature due to the fact that its efficiency will not be at its best.

  17. #16
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    The steel cage came from Hisun China. That is how until just a few months ago they thought it shoud be fixed. I do not know if any machines came with the replacement aluminum cage and drivers in my post.
    They finaly decided the correct way to handle the front diff problem is to replace it with a different model.

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  18. #17
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    The steel cage came from Hisun China. That is how until just a few months ago they thought it shoud be fixed. I do not know if any machines came with the replacement aluminum cage and drivers in my post.
    They finaly decided the correct way to handle the front diff problem is to replace it with a different model.
    in that case, all I have to do is requesting my dealer to ask China for the list of models shipped with and without the new front diff. Meanwhile to say that my front diff doesn't make funny noises, although I admit I do not use it too much. If the diff housing changes I could make a photo or three and attached in the forum to be seen if I knew how to do it.

  19. #18
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    No 2011 models have the new front diff in them as far as I know!
    The new diff is very different and the drive line changed also.

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  20. #19
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    No 2011 models have the new front diff in them as far as I know!
    The new diff is very different and the drive line changed also.
    Pro-Tech, I remember have seen a drawing in this forum with the kit to upgrade the cooling system. It included a "Y" connection to ensure the cold liquid gets at the same temperature in both cylinders and longer liquid lines, but I can find it. Do you know where could I see it?

  21. #20
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cilindro View Post
    Pro-Tech, I remember have seen a drawing in this forum with the kit to upgrade the cooling system. It included a "Y" connection to ensure the cold liquid gets at the same temperature in both cylinders and longer liquid lines, but I can find it. Do you know where could I see it?

    You can find the post here.

    http://rhinoclones.com/showthread.ph...hlight=cooling

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  22. #21
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post

    Thanks, I new it was somewhere. I suposse the electrical chart goes too with the upgrade.

  23. #22
    Respected Member Pro-Tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cilindro View Post
    Thanks, I new it was somewhere. I suposse the electrical chart goes too with the upgrade.
    Yes, but it is in Chinese!

    Pro-Tech Your Powersports of the north. Sales, Service, & Parts. 763-442-9245 www.erpowersports.com Elk River Powersports

  24. #23
    Senior Member cilindro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    Yes, but it is in Chinese!
    Speaking about Chinese, I believe the two pictures with the physical parts to make the change are incomplete. For instance if there is a ďYĒ for getting cold water in both cylinders, it should be another one for collecting the hot water from them. Pro-Tech, my question is if you have a full schematic with the complete circuitry including liquid pump, thermostat, radiator, Ö etc.

    Thanks,

  25. #24
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    Motor shuts down

    Quote Originally Posted by Pro-Tech View Post
    Just as Wyodlr says, no need to remove anything but the driver seat.

    On the top of the stator housing is the Crank Sensor.

    http://www.erpowersports.com/Images/CrankSensor.jpg

    Not sure why we can't post pictures anymore but here is a link to the picture.
    My 700 cub cadet shuts off and goes completed dead. No lights or gauges but was starting back after 15 to 20 mins. Now it has died and will not chank,no lights or gauges. Any ideas?

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